If you’re a cat lover looking for a playful and cozy crochet project, you’ll adore this crochet cat foot warmer. Designed to slip on easily and keep your feet snug, this pattern combines comfort with a touch of whimsy. With its cute cat-inspired details, it’s the perfect handmade gift for fellow feline fans, or a fun treat just for you. Quick to stitch and customizable, this pattern is sure to become a favorite in your crochet collection.

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“Purr-fectly Cozy Toes.”

Materials for the Crochet Cat Foot Warmer:

#5 Bulky (Plush-type)

Adult: MC-250yds, CC-40-50 yds, Child Sizes: MC-120-135 yds, small amount pink & eye color, small amount 4 ply yarn for whiskers

US K (6.5 mm)

Tapestry Needle

Toggle button (optional)

Polyfil Stuffing- small amount

Piece of Cardboard/Book/Magazine (optional)

Suggested Yarns:

This cat warmer was originally made with Joann’s Big Twist Posh. Here are some substitutes according to YarnSub and my testers:

• Michael’s is carrying Posh Purl, with limited colors (which is supposed to be Joann’s Big Twist Posh)
• Michael’s Charisma 
• King Cole Yummy
• Premier Basix Chunky (which isn’t a plush but still warm and soft)
• Swish Bulky
• Premier Parfait Chunky (a plush, but a #6-you may have to use a smaller hook size)
• Paintbox Chenille

Gauge:

10 hdc x 7 rows = 4”

Skill Level:

Advanced Beginner-Intermediate

Sizes For the Crochet Cat Foot Warmer:

Adult-One Size (13″ x 13″)          

Child Size-Small-4-7 years (9″ x 12″)     

Child Size-Large-8-11 years (11″ x 12″)

Abbreviation Used: US Terms

Beg= beginning
CC = contrasting color

ch = chain

Dec = decrease (sc 2 stitches together)

hdc = half double crochet

Inc = Increase (2 sts in same st)

MC = Main color

MR = magic ring

Rnd = round

sc = single crochet

sl st = slip stitch

st(s) = stitch(es)

hdc in 3^rd lp = half double crochet in third loop

Special Stitches Used in the Crochet Cat Foot Warmer:

hdc in 3^rd lp: place a hdc in 3^rd loop of the hdc on the inside of the rnd.

ch 3 picot: ch 3, sl st in 3^rd ch from hook

Notes:

• Use stitch markers to help you determine the first and last stitch on the crochet cat foot warmer.

Helpful Hints:

1. Pin pieces in place on the warmer before sewing.
2. Slide a piece of cardboard or book/magazine inside warmer while sewing on pieces.
3. Increase or decrease the number of rows before the 3^rd loop rows to make the warmer longer or shorter. Ideally it should end above the ankles of the recipient.
4. Using an invisible join will help hide the slanted “seam”. Find a tutorial here:

Rather have an ad-free, downloadable PDF. Purchase in either of my shops.

Callie Cat Foot Warmer Feature in Crochet Hygge Hop

This foot warmer was featured in the Crochet Hygge Blog Hop hosted by Green Fox Farms. Cozy crochet patterns available as free PDF downloads from Nov. 3-25, 2025. You can click the main event button to see all of the other patterns. Or grab the bundle with all 23 patterns right now and not have to wait or hop around.

Teen/Adult Crochet Cat Foot Warmer:

Remember, you can adjust the lengths by removing or repeating rounds before the last 3 rounds.

Rnd 1: With MC, ch 28, 3 hdc in 3^rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across until 1 ch remains, 6 hdc in last ch, now working on other side of ch, hdc in next 24 ch, 3 hdc in last ch, join with sl st in Beg st [60 hdc]

Rnd 2: ch 1, 2 hdc in 1^st 3 sts, hdc in next 24 sts, 2 hdc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 24 sts, 2 hdc in last 3 sts, join [72 hdc]

Rnds 3-23: ch 1, hdc in each st around, join

Rnds 24-26: ch 1, hdc in 3^rd lp in each st around, join

At the end of Rnd 26, fasten off. Weave in the ends.

If using the optional toggle button, join MC to middle stitch of final row on back of warmer. Chain 10, sl st to the next st on warmer. Fasten off. Sew toggle button to middle of front of warmer between top two 3^rd loop rows. Weave in the ends.

Facial Features:

Do not join. Use a stitch marker to mark the 1^st stitch of each round.

Ears: Make 2

Rnd 1: With MC, using MR, 4 sc in ring, pull to close [4 sc]

Rnd 2: (sc in next st, Inc in next st) around [6 sc]

Rnd 3: (Inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around [8 sc]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 3 sts, Inc in next st) around [10 sc]

Rnd 5: (Inc in next st, sc in next 4 sts) around [12 sc]

Rnd 6: (sc in next 5 sts, Inc in next st) around [14 sc]

Rnd 7: (Inc in next st, sc in next 6 sts) around [16 sc]

Rnd 8: (sc in next 7 sts, Inc in next st) around [18 sc]

Rnds 9-11: sc in each st around

At the end of Rnd 11, fasten off. Leave 8” tail for sewing.

Pink Inside Ear: Make 2

Row 1: With pink, ch 6, sc in 2^nd ch and each ch across, turn [5 sc]

Row 2: ch 1, sc across, turn

Row 3: ch 1, Dec next, sc across, turn [4 sc]

Row 4: ch 1, sc across, turn

Row 5: ch 1, Dec twice, turn [2 sc]

Row 6: ch 1, sc across, turn

Row 7: ch 1, Dec next [1 sc]

At the end of Row 7, fasten off. Leave a 12” length for sewing.

Muzzle:

Rnd 1: With CC, ch 8, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 5 ch, 3 sc in last ch, now working on other side of ch, sc in next 7 ch [18 sc]

Rnd 2: 2 sc in 1^st 3 sts, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next 3 sts, sc in last 6 sts [24 sc]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, Inc in next st) 3x, sc in next 6 sts, (sc in next st, Inc in next st) 3x, sc in last 6 sts [30 sc]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 sts, Inc in next st) 3x, sc in next 6 sts, (sc in next 2 sts, Inc in next st) 3x, sc in next 6 sts [36 sc]

Rnds 5-8: sc in each st around

At the end of Rnd 8, fasten off.

For the next part of the muzzle, you will be turning rows. Join yarn again 9 sts to the right from where you fastened off.

Row 1: ch 1, sc in next 6 sts. turn [6 sc]

Rows 2-11: ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, turn

Row 12: ch 1, Inc in 1^st st, sc across to last st, Inc in last st, turn [8 sc]

Row 13: ch 1, sc across, turn

Rows 14-17: rep Rows 12-13 twice [10 sc, 12 sc]

Fasten off. Leave 24” tail for sewing.

Nose:

Row 1: With pink, ch 5, sc in 2^nd ch and next 3 ch, turn [4 sc]

Row 2: ch 1, Dec 1^st st, sc in next 2 sts, turn [3 sc]

Row 3: ch 1, Dec 1^st st, sc in next st, turn [2 sc]

Row 4: ch 1, Dec next st, [1 sc]

Fasten off. Leave 8” tail for sewing.

Eyes: Make 2

It’s okay if the first part of your eye curls slightly. This will make it look like an eyeball.

Rnd 1: With chosen eye color, using MR, 8 hdc in ring, pull to close, join with sl st in beg st [8 hdc] Fasten off

Rnd 2: With MC, join in any st, sc in 1^st 2 sts, ch 3 picot, sc in next 5 sts, ch 3 picot, sc in last st, join

Fasten off. Leave 12” tail for sewing.

With black, embroider a slit in the middle of each eye.

Assembly:

• Sew pink insides to ears. Place the open part of the ears over the corner on each side of the warmer. Sew around being careful not to sew the warmer together. Weave in the ends.

• Sew nose to center of muzzle on Rows 1-2. Embroider mouth if desired. Stuff muzzle lightly. Place the end of the long middle section at the top of the warmer centered. Sew around long middle section and muzzle. Weave in the ends.

• Sew eyes slightly slanted on either side of the middle section about 3 rows above top of muzzle. Weave in the ends.

• If desired, use about four 4” pieces 4 ply yarn for the whiskers. Insert your hook in the stitches on either side of the muzzle, fold yarn in half, place on hook, pull through stitch, pull both ends through, and tighten the knot.  Separate the ply’s gently with a needle or fingers.

Enjoying this cat crochet foot warmer? Did you know I have a comprehensive Ebook-“Fun Feetie Warmers” full of 10 animal foot warmer patterns just like the cat.

Includes:

• 10 animals feet warmers-dog, bear, penguin, sloth to name a few
• A surprise bonus animal pattern-found ONLY in the Ebook
• Matching animal tags perfect for attaching to your handmade gifts-Kids will love getting these for Christmas
• Matching Animal Coloring Pages-a fun winter time or rainy day activity

Child Size Small Crochet Cat Foot Warmer:

Rnd 1: With MC, ch 28, 3 hdc in 3^rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across until 1 ch remains, 6 hdc in last ch, now working on other side of ch, hdc in next 24 ch, 3 hdc in last ch, join with sl st in Beg st [60 hdc]

Rnds 2-14: ch 1, hdc in each st around, join

Rnds 15-17: ch 1, hdc in 3^rd lp in each st around, join

At the end of Rnd 17, fasten off. Weave in the ends.

If using the optional toggle button, join MC to middle of final row on back of warmer. Chain 10, sl st to the next st on warmer. Sew toggle button to middle of front of warmer between top two 3^rd loop rows. Weave in the ends.

Facial Features:

Do not join. Use a stitch marker to mark the 1^st stitch of each round.

Ears: Make 2

Rnd 1: With MC, using MR, 4 sc in ring, pull to close [4 sc]

Rnd 2: (sc in next st, Inc in next st) around [6 sc]

Rnd 3: (Inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts around) [8 sc]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 3 sts, Inc in next st around) [10 sc]

Rnd 5: (Inc in next st, sc in next 4 sts) around [12 sc]

Rnd 6: (sc in next 5 sts, Inc in next st around) [14 sc]

Rnd 7: (Inc in next st, sc in next 6 sts) around [16 sc]

Rnds 8-10: sc in each st around

At the end of Rnd 10, fasten off. Leave 8” tail for sewing.

Pink Inside Ear: Make 2

Row 1: With pink, ch 6, sc in 2^nd ch and each ch across, turn [5 sc]

Row 2: ch 1, sc across, turn

Row 3: ch 1, Dec next, sc across, turn [4 sc]

Row 4: ch 1, sc across, turn

Row 5: ch 1, Dec twice, turn [2 sc]

Row 6: ch 1, Dec next [1 sc]

At the end of Row 6, fasten off. Leave a 12” length for sewing.

Muzzle:

Rnd 1: With CC, ch 8, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 5 ch, 3 sc in last ch, now working on other side of ch, sc in next 7 ch [18 sc]

Rnd 2: 2 sc in 1^st 3 sts, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next 3 sts, sc in last 6 sts [24 sc]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, Inc in next st) 3x, sc in next 6 sts, (sc in next st, Inc in next st) 3x, sc in last 6 sts [30 sc]

Rnds 4-7: sc in each st around

At the end of Rnd 7, fasten off. Leave 18” tail for sewing.

For the next part of the muzzle, you will be turning rows. Join yarn again 5 sts to the right from where you fastened off.

Row 1: ch 1, sc in next 4 sts. turn [4 sc]

Rows 2-7: ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, turn

Row 8: ch 1, Inc in 1^st st, sc across to last st, Inc in last st, turn [6 sc]

Row 9: ch 1, sc across, turn

Rows 10-13: ch 1, Rep Rows 8-9 twice [8 sc, 10 sc]

Fasten off. Leave 24” tail for sewing.

Nose:

Row 1: With pink, ch 4, sc in 2^nd ch and next 2 ch, turn [3 sc]

Row 2: ch 1, Dec 1^st st, sc in next st, turn [2 sc]

Row 3: ch 1, Dec next st, [1 sc]

Fasten off. Leave 8” tail for sewing.

Eyes: Make 2

It’s okay if the first part of your eye curls slightly. This will make it look like an eyeball.

Rnd 1: With chosen eye color, using MR, 6 hdc in ring, pull to close, join with sl st in beg st [6 hdc] Fasten off

Rnd 2: With MC, join in any st, sc in 1^st st, ch 3 picot, sc in next 4 sts, ch 3 picot, sc in last st, join [6 sc, 2 picots}

Fasten off. Leave 12” tail for sewing. With black, embroider a slit in the middle of each eye.

Assembly:

• Sew pink insides to ears. Place the open part of the ears over the corner on each side of the warmer. Sew around being careful not to sew the warmer together. Weave in the ends.

• Sew nose to center of muzzle on Rows 1-2. Embroider mouth if desired. Stuff muzzle lightly. Place the end of the long middle section at the top of the warmer centered. Sew around long middle section and muzzle. Weave in the ends.

• Sew eyes slightly slanted on either side of the middle section about 3 rows above top of muzzle. Weave in the ends.

• If desired, use about four 4” pieces 4 ply yarn for the whiskers. Insert your hook in the stitches on either side of the muzzle, fold yarn in half, place on hook, pull through stitch, pull both ends through, and tighten the knot.  Separate the ply’s gently with a needle or fingers.

Child Size Large Crochet Cat Foot Warmer:

Rnd 1: With MC, ch 28, 3 hdc in 3^rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across until 1 ch remains, 6 hdc in last ch, now working on other side of ch, hdc in next 24 ch, 3 hdc in last ch, join with sl st in Beg st [60 hdc]

Rnds 2-18: ch 1, hdc in each st around, join

Rnds: 19-21: ch 1, hdc in 3^rd lp in each st around, join

At the end of Rnd 21, fasten off. Weave in the ends.

If using the optional toggle button, join MC to middle of final row on back of warmer. Chain 10, sl st to the next st on warmer. Sew toggle button to middle of front of warmer between top two 3^rd loop rows. Weave in the ends.

Facial Features:

Do not join. Use a stitch marker to mark the 1^st stitch of each round.

Ears: Make 2

Rnd 1: With MC, using MR, 4 sc in ring, pull to close [4 sc]

Rnd 2: (sc in next st, Inc in next st) around [6 sc]

Rnd 3: (Inc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) around [8 sc]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 3 sts, Inc in next st) around [10 sc]

Rnd 5: (Inc in next st, sc in next 4 sts) around [12 sc]

Rnd 6: (sc in next 5 sts, Inc in next st) around [14 sc]

Rnd 7: (Inc in next st, sc in next 6 sts) around [16 sc]

Rnds 8-10: sc in each st around

At the end of Rnd 10, fasten off. Leave 8” tail for sewing.

Pink Inside Ear: Make 2

Row 1: With pink, ch 6, sc in 2^nd ch and each ch across, turn [5 sc]

Row 2: ch 1, sc across, turn

Row 3: ch 1, Dec next, sc across, turn [4 sc]

Row 4: ch 1, sc across, turn

Row 5: ch 1, Dec twice, turn [2 sc]

Row 6: ch 1, Dec next [1 sc]

At the end of Row 6, fasten off. Leave a 12” length for sewing.

Muzzle:

Rnd 1: With CC, ch 8, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 5 ch, 3 sc in last ch, now working on other side of ch, sc in next 7 ch [18 sc]

Rnd 2: 2 sc in 1^st 3 sts, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next 3 sts, sc in last 6 sts [24 sc]

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, Inc in next st) 3x, sc in next 6 sts, (sc in next st, Inc in next st) 3x, sc in last 6 sts [30 sc]

Rnds 4-7: sc in each st around

At the end of Rnd 7, fasten off. Leave 18” tail for sewing.

For the next part of the muzzle, you will be turning rows. Join yarn again 5 sts to the right from where you fastened off.

Row 1: ch 1, sc in next 4 sts. turn [4 sc]

Rows 2-9: ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, turn

Row 10: ch 1, Inc in 1^st st, sc across to last st, Inc in last st, turn [6 sc]

Row 11: ch 1, sc across, turn

Rows 12-15: Rep Rows 10-11 twice [8 sc, 10 sc]

Fasten off. Leave 24” tail for sewing.

Nose:

Row 1: With pink, ch 4, sc in 2^nd ch and next 2 ch, turn [3 sc]

Row 2: ch 1, Dec 1^st 2 sts, sc in next st, turn [2 sc]

Row 3: ch 1, Dec next 2 sts, [1 sc]

Fasten off. Leave 8” tail for sewing.

Eyes: Make 2

It’s okay if the first part of your eye curls slightly. This will make it look like an eyeball.

Rnd 1: With chosen eye color, using MR, 6 hdc in ring, pull to close, join with sl st in beg st [6 hdc] Fasten off

With MC, join in any st, sc in 1^st st, ch 3 picot, sc in next 4 sts, ch 3 picot, sc in last st, join

Fasten off. Leave 12” tail for sewing.

With black, embroider a slit in the middle of each eye.

Assembly:

• Sew pink insides to ears. Place the open part of the ears over the corner on each side of the warmer. Sew around being careful not to sew the warmer together. Weave in the ends.

• Sew nose to center of muzzle on Rows 1-2. Embroider mouth if desired. Stuff muzzle lightly. Place the end of the long middle section at the top of the warmer centered. Sew around long middle section and muzzle. Weave in the ends.

• Sew eyes slightly slanted on either side of the middle section about 3 rows above top of muzzle. Weave in the ends.

• If desired, use about four 4” pieces 4 ply yarn for the whiskers. Insert your hook in the stitches on either side of the muzzle, fold yarn in half, place on hook, pull through stitch, pull both ends through, and tighten the knot.  Separate the ply’s gently with a needle or fingers.

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